Magical, mysterious, wonderful Venice!
Best memory of Venice #9
Here comes another beautiful memory of Venice, this time from my dear friend Karen who owns a lovely holiday house in Umbria, Vecchia Casa. I hope she will find some time soon to come over to see me so we can then go around Venice enjoying some bacari.
Magical, mysterious, wonderful Venice! My body & soul enter a different world when I’m there. After each visit I’m enchanted for a week or more, remembering my experiences.
Both visits, one in summer, the other in winter, were made while staying with friends in Treviso. The 1st time I took the train to Venice, alighting at the train station, I was not prepared for the sight of the Grand Canal before me in all its magnificence. No other train station is situated in such a glorious location.
On 1 visit, my walk from the station led me to the Ghetto, where I visited the Jewish museum and took a tour of several of the synagogues where Jews were forced to pray in secret. From there, I simply walked and walked and walked, there was beauty in everything I saw and I wanted to savour all of it. I constantly got lost, the only place in the world where its a pleasure. Not for me, rushing around a list of famous sites crowded with tourists, instead I ambled and by doing so, was rewarded by empty streets and quiet museums.
Something to enjoy in Venice is the shops selling and renting costumes and masks for Carnevale I remember rummaging in a fascinating shop selling new and old costumes in Calle Scaleter, coming away having purchased a yellow, beaded beret.
Another memorable experience was dining at the rather elegant Osteria Da Fiore in the same calle. Added to the delicious food and good service, was the song of the passing gondoliers wafting through the window.
On my visit to Murano, I avoided the hawkers offering to take me to a glass making factory, preferring to explore for myself. After visiting a number of shops I stopped for lunch at the famous trattoria, Busa Alla Torre where I tasted my 1st Bellinis and met an interesting Australian jewelry designer and her partner. They suggested I come with them to visit the glass blowing factory where she sources her beads. No one else was there apart from us, allowing me to view the skill of the craftsmen from up close.
A peaceful winter morning was spent at the Ca d’Oro Museum along the Grand Canal then on to lunch at the quaint trattoria Alla Vedova, just behind, owned by the rather eccentric Mirella, who I met in London not long before my visit.
An afternoon spent as the Navale Museum was a unique experience. Housed in a 15th c building I viewed the magnificent ceremonial barge of the Doges of Venice and another room filled with gondolas. There were also other types of boats, all of which I found fascinating. Very near is the boatyard, where the gondolas are crafted by hand. I stood on the other side of the canal for ages taking in every detail I could of this unique workshop and its boatyard.
If all were not wonder enough, on the train from the airport to London I met an artists model who told me how she met and married the artist Ken Howard RA. My one regret was not having purchased one of his wonderful depictions of Venice.
If you haven’t been to Venice you haven’t lived!
Karen is the proud owner of a beautiful holiday home in Umbria called La Vecchia Casa.
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