Poste Vecie Restaurant Restaurant in Venice
If you come to Venice, you can not miss the Rialto fish market: this is a millennial market, grown in the center of the city at the time of its highest expansion; here an herbal market and a fishery were created, with warehouses, offices, shops and retail counters.
Very famous for its colors, its aromas and perfumes, the season Venetian fruit and vegetables, the flowers – it is a place where the sellers still scream to show off their goods, the fish jump on the benches, while the fishmongers, with quick and expert hand, cut them open and clean them up for their clients.
And here is also the oldest restaurant in Venice, dating back to 1500s, and also the only one on the market: the Poste Vecie Restaurant.
I had the pleasure of eating here a few weeks ago thanks to 2Night Venezia – article in Italian.
Eating at the Rialto Market
Placed next to the fish market, to access you have to cross an old and typical Venetian wooden bridge, which also seems to be the oldest private wooden bridge in Venice.
With these important historical and traditional preambles, on a gloomy autumn day, I visited this historic restaurant, located in the same place where once stood a post office and where originally the couriers of the ancient Serenissima Posta used to finish the day.
Fabio D’Orfeo, owner of the restaurant together with his brother Diego, welcomed me. The D’Orfeo family has been running the restaurant since 1993.
So, of historical, there is not only the building, but also the management!
First of all, Fabio showed me the two ancient rooms of the restaurant: the Sala dei Vizi (the Vices Room), frescoed by Cherubini, with representations of the Seven Deadly Sins, and the Sala delle Missive (the Message Room), where you can see the original letters, delivery notes and coins from the old Republic of Venice.
Real Venetian Food
With much of the original 16th-century elements still decorating the dining rooms, Poste Vecie is a joy for the eyes, totally embracing you in its historical atmosphere.
Fabio explained to me the philosophy of the place: a firm decision to respect Venetian recipes, remaining linked to the history of the cuisine of Venice, but also trying to bring innovation, revisiting some dishes with new cooking methods that enhance the unique flavors of the fish of the Venetian lagoon and the Italian sea.
A perfect combination of tradition and modernity, which offers the customer the opportunity to taste typical Venetian cuisine or more contemporary dishes, in a cozy and refined atmosphere.
It was about midday and I sat in the Sala Dei Vizi, in total admiration of the beautiful and majestic original fireplace, which is still used to warm and cheer guests, and the many colorful dishes of Associazione del Buon Ricordo, whose association the restaurant was part of many years.
For a moment it seemed to me that I had been catapulted back in time: at any moment I expected to see Casanova coming in, wearing his tricorn; it seems he used to come here often for his romantic dinners.
Eating at Poste Vecie
I was offered a good glass of Prosecco Millesimato, while I checked the menu, with the help of the very well prepared and kind Davide.
The cuisine is purely typical Venetian, especially with dishes based on fish from the lagoon, starting with the famous Baccalà Mantecato (creamed salted cod), the Granceola ( spider crab), and then the Venetian cuttlefish, all prepared with a great attention to the seasonality of the product and of course, as Fabio says, farm-to-table or better still, sea-to-table, given the close proximity to the fish market.
Davide advised me to start with “His Majesty” the Red Shrimp, a refined ingredient, delicious and consumed in many ways, but at its best, when eaten raw: Poste Vecie presents it as Crudità di Gamberi Rossi of Mazzara del Vallo, with Fennel, Green Apple, Red Beetroot and Citrus Oil.
The presentation of the dish was simple and delicate, but stunning. Obviously the freshness and quality of the proposed fish were at the center of this dish, but I also appreciated the combination with the acidity of the green apple and the vegetal, sweet, almost “earthy” note of the red turnip.
As a main course I followed David’s advice again, who suggested a Piovra Grigliata (Grilled Octopus) served with Botoli, typical Venetian artichokes, and Crushed Potatoes, all accompanied by a local Venetian wine, Orto, produced on the island of Sant ‘ Erasmo, a wine based on Malvasia grapes.
Grilling has the advantage of enhancing all the tasty flavor of this seafood, which can be chewy and tough many times, if not cooked correctly: in this case it was so tender, it could be cut with a breadstick, as we say in Italy! The combination with the artichokes is a classic of our Venetian cuisine and even here I was not disappointed: the flavours were amazing!
Finally I chose one of the most classic and best Italian pastries: a millefeuille with custard. This cake was very crumbly and crunchy, to the point that I was convinced the pastry was fried and not cooked in the oven (but the chef confirmed it was cooked in the oven), the cream was sweet, but not heavy, and very velvety – a perfect combination of flavors and textures for a very tasty and irresistible dessert.
Poste Vecie is the perfect place for a romantic dinner or if you really want to be immersed in the Venetian tradition, both from the point of view of food and the environment. All the dining room staff is very well prepared and professional, the wine list is exceptional, with great Venetian, Italian and international wines.
One of the few restaurants that can be said to have remained truly Venetian, where it really seems to take a plunge into the past!
Poste Vecie Restaurant in Venice
Address: San Polo 1608,Rialto Mercato, Calle de le Beccarie, 30124 Venezia VE
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